Savoy Ezo Pizza in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
As part of our series on pizza restaurants in Sapporo, we present this review of Savoy Ezo Pizza in Chuo-ku, Sapporo. As Tokyo’s Savoy comes to our city, Sapporo takes another step forward as a destination for world-class food and entertainment.
The proper name for this shop is Savoy Ezo, but we will assume the Ezo part (which is an old name for Hokkaido) will be harder to remember. We expect this shop to be known locally as Savoy Pizza, or Sapporo Savoy (for those that realize Savoy has several pizza restaurants in Japan).
We know the Savoy brand from our experience with Savoy “Domi-LA” in Asabujuban, Tokyo (one of two Savoys in Tokyo), where we stopped in to try their famous “raw tuna pizza” (an beautiful and original pizza). As Savoy establishes Savoy Ezo in Sapporo, they continues in that same tradition of Neapolitan pizzas with an original, creative flair.
Let’s take a look:
Isn’t that gorgeous? I have visceral memories of that pizza in particular.
As Pizza Czar of Japan, it is my duty to bring you first-hand reviews of all the best pizza in Japan. If you have seen our coverage of pizza restaurants in Tokyo or pizza restaurants in Osaka, you know we deliver real pizza knowledge. Having some opportunity to be in Sapporo, I have eaten Sapporo’s Savoy Ezo at least five times now.
What will follow below is an extensive review of the opportunities that await you at what is very likely Sapporo’s best pizza restaurant.
Your meal at Sapporo’s Savoy Pizza can only begin after you find the shop. Your first clue is a rather unimpressive little sign at the entrance to the the Astoria Sapporo Building (アストリア札幌).
I am a big fan of Savoy Sapporo, and that sign is bad first impression. What you’ll find downstairs is a very nice place; that sign doesn’t do the shop justice at all.
As you see that little sign, you have to find your way off the street, and downstairs, to the location on B1. The access to Savoy is sort of hidden; behind the staircase you can see from the street, there are some stairs that will take you down to B1 and the restaurant in the basement of the building.
As you come under the stairs, you’ll see the red logo on the metal background, and you’re almost there.
Once you arrive downstairs, you begin to have one of the nicer experiences Sapporo has to offer. The Savoy team have invested in what has become a very comfortable space, and a great experience for a meal (except for the non-stop Beatles playlist, but we’ll do some heavy praise before we complain).
Inside, there are two, large, black metal, almost medieval looking pizza ovens, surrounded by a wide c-shaped counter, with the pizza master in the center (like a gladiator), at work before the fire.
There are also several two-seater tables, and a separate counter that faces a traditional kitchen.
For my part, I want to sit at the counter, facing the pizza ovens. That is a fun place to be, the view is excellent, you might even learn a thing or two about pizza (I always do).
Once you’re seated, Savoy Ezo Sapporo has a very extensive menu (almost too big). There are not only many, many pizzas to choose from (almost too many), but also appetizers, meats, and pastas.
The pizza menu at Savoy has a mix of traditional Neapolitan-style pizzas, their “house specialties” (like the tuna pizza), and then rotating, seasonal pizzas. For my tastes, the range of options is exciting.
While Napoletana pizza isn’t (necessarily) my favorite kind of pizza, I’ve grown to love the category. Savoy has all the basic Neapolitan pizzas like a Margherita (which you will never catch me ordering) and the Marinara (although you should see Da Massimo for the best Marinara in Sapporo). I have been tempted many times by Savoy’s Siciliana Pizza (Anchovies, Garlic, Oregano, Capers, Basil, Tomato Sauce). Several times, I was fully intending to order that Siciliana, but… each time I am always lured away by some other unusual option on the menu.
On my first visit (many months ago), I wanted one of their house-specialty pizzas, and that night it was to be the Pizza “Maru.”
Pizza “Maru”: Original Taco Sauce, Mozzarella, Taco Meat, Onion, Tomato, Avocado (2450 JPY)
Maru means “circle” in Japanese (you might know the famous fat cat “Maru” from his “if he fits, he sits” internet videos), but the Pizza Maru is basically a Mexican pizza.
As it arrived at my table, the slice of lime was a nice touch, but the chopped onions (while true to the street taco tradition) were a little overwhelming. If you order the Pizza Maru, I recommend you ask for the onions on the side…
We have ordered that same Pizza Maru again, without the chopped onions, which makes it much easier to see what that pizza is really all about. The avocado and fresh tomatoes (added after the pizza comes out of the oven) make this an almost “California” pizza. Fresh, tasty, and just beautiful to look at.
(For another version of a Mexican pizza from right here in Sapporo, check out Smile Pizza Kitchen Diner.)
The most basic, traditional pizza I have ever had at Savoy in Sapporo is their Diavola.
Diavola Pizza: Mozzarella, Jalapeno, Pepperoni, Tomato Sauce (2200 JPY)
— From the pizza menu at Savoy Ezo, Sapporo
In Japan, the Diavola is a very common pizza; Savoy’s Diavola is basically a Pepperoni Pizza, with Jalapeno. Very simple, and a complete success. It is not my favorite pizza in the shop, but is something I would absolutely order again. Wonderful.
The crust on that pizza was properly blackened. It was sturdier than the crust at Savoy Asabujuban (which I remember as more paper thin). This crust – fantastic. Amazing.
Savoy has done a good job of trying to localize the pizzas on their menu, using some ingredients that are distinctly from Hokkaido. For example; one night I was there, visitors had the option of The Ezo Venison Ragu and Onion Pizza (Hokkaido often features deer meat). For another example:
Furano Wagyu Beef Pizza: Furano Wagyu Beef Pizza (3300 JPY)
For readers that aren’t familiar, Furano is one of the many local ski areas in Hokkaido (about 2 hours and 30 minutes from Sapporo). With that pizza, they are trying to bring more local Hokkaido meat into the creation.
They have a naming convention at Savoy where they give some of their specialty pizzas a letter. For example, there is Pizza “T.”
Pizza T. Lamb Rago, Pecorino Cheese, Mozzarella, Seasonal Vegetables (2850 JPY)
The meat on the Pizza “T” was a stewed lamb sauce, like you might serve over pasta; like a lamb-infused “spaghetti sauce pizza,” delivered via a Napoletana-style crust. You can see the honeycombed renkon adding some “Japanese” influence. It is not my personal favorite, but was a tasty pizza and fits neatly in the category of “comfort food.”
In some of the reviews I’ve written recently (including my review of Pizza Bar on 38th in Tokyo and Trattoria E Pizzeria Elefante in Kobe) I have been going out of my way to try (and to then try to describe) some of the many seafood pizzas in Japan. I can say from experience that Japan makes a big splash in the international pizza scene, but maybe most distinctly in their incorporation of seafood and fish into the art of pizza making.
I have already mentioned that Savoy is famous for a raw tuna pizza (see my review of Savoy Pizza, Abasujuban). They have a version of that pizza here at Savoy Ezo called Pizza “Y.”
Pizza Y: Hokkaido Tuna, Mayonnaise Sauce, Mashed Corn, Mozzarella (4500 JPY)
As I had eaten that pizza before (a very interesting pizza, as much for how it looks as how it tastes), I have been more interested in some other options on Sapporo Savoy menu.
Here is another seafood pizza for your consideration.
Cod and Shirako Bechamel Bianca: Cod Confit, Tuna, Bechamel Sauce, Parmesan, Lemon (3500 JPY)
I mentioned before that the pizza menu at Savoy has multiple pages, it goes on and on. As I was looking at my choices, I actually ordered this cod and bechamel pizza by mistake (I don’t particularly like “cream” based pizzas). In this case, any seafood flavor from the fish (which you can see in the picture) was understated and hard to notice. The bechamel pizza was one of my least favorites.
What I meant to order was yet another cod fish pizza on the menu:
Cod and Lily Bulb Marinara: Cod Confit, Lily Bulbs, Tomato Sauce, Basil, Oregano, Garlic (2450 JPY)
The night I ordered that bechamel pizza, I assumed I was eating this one (too focused on the cod to notice there was no tomato sauce). I’m still intrigued by this pizza, and the opportunity to try “lily bulbs” (which make me remember eating an amazing bacon pizza with “butterbur” at PST Rippongi, Tokyo).
Without even mentioning anchovies, we have already talked about three seafood pizzas from Savoy Ezo (the tuna, and two different pizza with cod), and we have not yet discussed the best pizza I have ever had at Savoy Sapporo; I love their Pizza “A.”
Pizza A: Akkeshi Oyster, Pancetta, Spinach, Mozzarella (2850 JPY)
Just amazing.
In my attempt to delve deeper into the Japanese seafood pizza tradition, I was after the “shellfish” on Savoy’s Pizza “A” – I wanted to try an “oyster pizza.” And I did, but it was the pancetta that stole the show.
From my notes that night:
First bite; That bacon flavor, the salt mixing with the cheese, that fantastic crust. In the absence of any tomato flavor, that salty-savory mix of the cheese spiked with salt, and that wonderful crust, were the dominant flavors. Against all that, the oysters played a surprisingly subtle supporting role.
Excellent. And just a beautiful pizza to look at. The Pizza “A” alone is reason to love Savoy Ezo.
And quickly: Yes, some of Savoy’s pizzas pass the Pizza Czar’s Pizza Test; they can be picked up. It really depends on the type, though. Some of the pizzas are very heavy (some are almost soupy), but in the case of the Pizza A, it was very capable of being eaten by hand.
In the way of another recommendation; if you can arrange to sit on the diner’s-right side of the pizza counter, it’s easier to watch the pizza creation process. In my humble opinion, that is the best view in the house.
Some notes from the time I ordered “Pizza A:”
I watched him make it. First the dough, then the mozzarella, then about eight oysters. A few sprigs of spinach. Then, what looked like bacon – the pancetta. Then… several heavy, lingering passes with the olive oil. A sprinkling of salt on the pizza (more salt tossed into the fire). In the oven for about a minute, and to my table.
That big beast of an oven. One of two – but I’ve never seen both in operation at the same time.
I said I would offer a complaint or two, and I will.
I don’t like the coasters (how is that for petty, inconsequential critique). They are made from a very cheap, artificial, rubbery material, all disco’d up w/ glitter, with a harsh combination of red and black (that is best suited for the costume of a bad guy in a superhero cartoon). It’s a minor detail, but at odds with an otherwise organic and graceful atmosphere.
And then, a more passionate complaint:
Why the non-stop Beatles songs? Why? It’s not particular good for one visit, and gets worse each time you come back.
Beatles music, over and over. I have to say, “Martha My Dear”… that is a lot of Beatles. The Beatles are great and all, but their greatest hits are so over played – they come off as a little too sticky-sweet. Maybe I should just (eh hem) “Let it Be,” but the monotony is conspicuous, and obviously a conscious choice.
“Is there anyone going to listen to my story?” To be honest, I think we’ve all have heard it before.
If you know pizza in Japan (and I do), you’ll know that Seirinkan Pizza in Tokyo already did the whole beat-up Beatles theme, and they did it first, and it gimmicky when they did it. To copy that move is expose yourself as a bit of wannabe, and that’s not what you want to be… when you can stand on your own as Savoy.
“I told you about Strawberry fields.” Yeah, you did, several times. “You say you want a revolution?” No thanks. But I’d love it if you’d mix up the playlist a little. Classic rock would be a great choice, but not all “Rocky Racoon.”
After several sessions at Savoy, the music is the only real turn-off – and one that would be easy to fix.
Other than those two things (those, and maybe also the kitschy little toys made of the caps of wine bottles?), the experience at Savoy elevates Sapporo as a real pizza town – and we needed it.
We have covered the best of pizza in Sapporo here for years (we do it better than anyone, of course). We’re refreshing a few of our reviews, and then we’ll write a “best pizza in Sapporo” article. The aforementioned Da Massimo will be on the list (shocking simple, but wonderful pizza, one of the best in Japan). The once-a-month production by Makino Pizza will be on that list (and would maybe be #1 if they were available more often). Orzo Pizza will get a strong mention. I almost feel bad for the overly-serious Dalsegno Pizza (which makes a good pizza, but is too generic-Naples-try hard to stand out). Most likely, we’ll gladly crown Savoy the best pizza restaurant in the city. We hope the collection of excellent pizza we’ve shown here helps make that designation an obvious choice.
Hello Savoy. Welcome to Sapporo.
Highly recommended.
Pizza in Sapporo
— For an outstanding garlicky Marinara pizza, check out Da Massimo in Shiroishi-ku, Sapporo
— The farmers from Makino Farms make wonderful little Neapolitan pizza at Makino Pizza (one or two days a month, only)
— A very formulaic Napoletana pizza at Dalsegno Pizza in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— Quirky neighborhood style pizza at the American-theme Smile Kitchen Pizza Diner
— The only New York pizza slices at Pizza Joint Pike in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— There is a full menu that includes good Neapolitan-style pizza at Agora Pizza in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— One of the worst Chicago pizzas in all of Japan can be found at The Craft in Susukino in Chuo-ku, Sapporo