Pizza e Svago di Pluis, Nishi-ku, Sapporo
A special addition to our list of the best pizza in Sapporo, we bring you this review of Pizza e svago di Pluis, in Nishi-ku, Sapporo.
Sapporo’s Pizza Pluis is a one-man pizza show, in spacious, stylish shop.
To get to Pizza e svago di Pluis, you can take the Tozai line out to Kotoni Station, and then catch a bus to the shop (like Da Massimo Pizza, this shop is a little out side of the center of town). If you have wheels, there is plenty of parking in the back (next to a little backyard tomato patch).
I have already been out to Pizzeria di Pluis three time. I like everything about this shop, but let’s show you some pizza.
Doesn’t that look good? The pictures of Pizza e svago di Pluis are some of the most beautiful pictures of pizza I have ever taken.
Stacked outside, you’ll see a big pile of chopped firewood for the wood-fired pizza oven. Inside the shop, six wood-topped tables. Minimal architecture that feels calm, clean, and contemporary.
As the pizzaiolo is a one-man show, you’ll be introduced to a kind of self-serve system. At each table, there are simple “order forms.” You make your choices, write them down for him, and bring your order to the counter. You help yourself to drinks. I have complained about a similar system at Pizzeria Regalo in Osaka, where that shop feels less like cooperation, and more like crowd control (really not a good experience). In contrast, Pizza Pluis is friendly and comfortable. The services at Pluis is not always fast, but it’s relaxing and leisurely to be there.
I’ve now been to the shop several times, and can share pictures and comments for several different pizzas.
On the first visit, I didn’t record the names or the ingredients, but I did take some notes. My first pizza at Pizza Pluis was a special “Spicy Salami” Pizza.
Absolutely beautiful. Crust was thin, and the pizza had fresh tomatoes, so it was a little “wet.” This special pizza (not on the regular menu) was basically a Diavola Pizza, but with Japanese shishito peppers, which add gorgeous green contrast but the peppers’ flavor was subtle (if detectable at all). The salami was indeed spicy.
The combination of those fresh, soft tomatoes, and crust, was the focus of the flavor.
Our second pizza was a “very Hokkaido” Corn Pizza, made with a cream sauce and ham. The corn was very sweet. The cream provided a mild, consistently mouth-coating taste in each bite. The ham was high quality, but struggled to punch thru the sweet and cream. It was the coarse black pepper that made this dish work. And… the basil; the surprising spicy superstar of the pizza.
His crust is hearty and very good. It was blackened and spotted, and reminded me at times (just on the first visit) of the flavor of pancakes (I have never made that association before), especially paired with the sweet corn.
On another visit a few weeks later, I took closer notes.
Macellaio Pizza: Mozzarella, Basil, Ham, Salami, Salsiccia, Black Pepper
First bite: The warm heat of the cheese, then something that reminded me of butter. The meat flavors were coming thru, but the fresh cracked pepper caught my attention. A wonderful meat pizza. Beautiful, satisfying, and delicious.
I assume that “buttery” taste was just the fat from the olive oil, but maybe there was butter in the sauce; mixed with that flesh-baked bread quality of the crust, the sensations was like a hot, buttered roll.
On my most recent visit, two more pizzas. We started with Napolitana classic.
Romana Pizza: Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella, Anchovy, Oregano, Olive, Basil
First bite: A burst of hot olive oil, tomato, and anchovy. Second bite, changing direction, featured the flavor of the olive. There was a consistent taste of herbs, maybe oregano.
I recently had a chance to try Sapporo’s Circo Pizza (in Susukino). It was delicious (I was surprised how much I liked it), but that pizza was so inelegantly made, so overloaded with heaped-on toppings. Pluis Pizza offers a much more skillful balance of toppings, less overwhelming, more distinct tastes.
Just perfectly done, simple, classic, delicious.
On this visit we had another classic, as well.
Diavola Pizza: Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella, Basil, Salami Picante
Pluis Pizza’s Diavola began with a strong, more uniformly savory taste than the Romano. The Diavola’s taste was all tomato, followed by the heat of the high-quality salami. This is well done pizza, a mature “pepperoni” pizza.
And… apparently, our host is big fan Manchester alternative rock bands?
As advertised, tracks from a playlist that includes the Stone Roses, mixed with a “college rock and alternative,” stream out from overhead JBL speakers. Whirlweek (by David Grubbs). C.R.E.A.M. (WuTang). Hold Soundz (Pavement). One to Another (The Charlatans). All that, and sure enough, Fool’s Gold came on why we were there one time.
By now you can see the light in the Pizza Pluis shop is just ideal for photographs. The shop faces north, and the afternoon light coming in off the street sets up these incredible shots. I can’t claim that Pizza Pluis is necessarily the “best” pizza in Sapporo, but it is easily one of best pizza experiences on this northern island.
Not technically about this shop, but on the same topic: The pizza master and I were talking about the best pizza in Japan. I was about to take another trip to eat pizza in Tokyo, and he had a recommendation for me; he sent me to Pizzeria Il Tamburello, and it was fantastic. I’ll tell that story on TokyoShortList some day.
I am (quite obviously) a huge fan of Pluis Pizza. Highly recommended. I like this guy’s pizza more each time I go.
Pizza in Sapporo
— For an outstanding garlicky Marinara pizza, check out Da Massimo in Shiroishi-ku, Sapporo
— The Savoy Pizza in Sapporo is a great choice (in Chuo-ku)
— The farmers from Makino Farms make wonderful little Neapolitan pizza at Makino Pizza (one or two days a month, only)
— A very formulaic Napoletana pizza at Dalsegno Pizza in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— A new downtown location for the chain store Osteria Salvatore Sapporo Pizza is in this same neighborhood
— Quirky neighborhood style pizza at the American-theme Smile Kitchen Pizza Diner
— The only New York pizza slices at Pizza Joint Pike in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— There is a full menu that includes good Neapolitan-style pizza at Agora Pizza in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— One of the worst Chicago pizzas in all of Japan can be found at The Craft in Susukino in Chuo-ku, Sapporo