Italian Circo Pizza (by Sapporo Station) in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
There are several Circo pizza restaurants in Sapporo, at least three that use the name Circo. As we continue on our list of the best pizza in Sapporo, we add this review is about the “Italian” イタリアンCIRCO Pizza near Sapporo Station. This shop is a bit uncomfortably loud, but makes a very good pizza.
This location of Circo pizza restaurant is located just a few minutes walk from Sapporo Station. There are two more Circo pizza nearby; closer to Susukino Station you’ll find Pizzeria Circo in the Cocono shopping mall, as well as Circo Vivo Pizza (which is about two blocks to the west of Susukino Station).
This location calls itselfイタリアン CIRCO; those katakana spell out “Italian.” To get into Italian Circo, you enter the lobby of the TR building (TRビル”) and take the elevator to 3F.
As you step out of the elevator the shop is an all-in replica of an Italian restaurant (like one you might find in New York City, or maybe even Italy, who knows, I’ve never been to Italy); red-check tablecloths, bottles of wine, Italian insignia in all directions…
(There are even some Matisse prints, for you Fauve-era art fans. And Matisse is French… so… I’m not sure what the Matisse prints are supposed to signify.)
I visited this shop recently, only because I (re)discovered it while doing some research for our review of the Pizzeria Circo at Cocono. When I saw there was a spot that made good-looking Napoletana pizzas near the station, I wanted to give it try. As soon as I walked up on the entrance, I knew I’d been here before; I think I had my first Circo pizza in 2021, but forgot all about it. My bad.
It was good to be back – check out this pizza.
When I wrote my review of the Cocono Circo Pizza, I was surprised at what a fine pizza Circo makes. I don’t like the atmosphere of that particular shop (it’s a food court), so I was eager to check out the other Circo shops. I love pizza. Circo makes good pizza. Let’s see what they got.
On the pizza menu, you can see something like 12 Neapolitan-style pizzas, all of them classics. In Japan, pizza shops will always lead with the Margherita, quickly followed by the Quatrro Formaggi (four cheese). I’m not interested in either of those pizzas. When a shop does “the greatest hits of Naples-style” pizza, I usually look for the Siciliana… Circo doesn’t make a Siciliana. Okay.
(For a good Siciliana in Sapporo, check out Orso Pizzeria Gelato in Higashi-ku.)
On this menu, the Salami Pizza would be a good choice (for me). And then, what about that “green sauce” Genovese Pizza?
Since I was at Circo for lunch, they only offered a “set menu.” The set comes as a pasta, a main, or if you want the pizza lunch set at Circo, you choose from: Margherita, Quattro Formaggi, Marinara, Salsiccia e Funghi (sausage and mushroom), Salami, Diavola, and the Prosciutto Genovese. Oh, there is that Genovese again.
I don’t like a limited menu, but there were several winners on that short-list of pizzas available in the set. The Sausage, the Salami, but again… I wanted that Genovese Pizza… with prosciutto.
Genovese Pizza: Basil Sauce, Mozzarella, Cherry Tomatoes, Proscuitto
— From the lunchtime pizza menu at イタリアン CIRCO pizza
The pizza was the thing I wanted from Circo, but the lunch set was expected of me; all roads led back to the lunch set. I submitted to the course.
First came the appetizer plate: a bit of potato salad, some seasoned, marinaded vegetables with tomato sauce, some kind of liquid cheese, a thin, 1/4 section of a slice of mortadella (with a line of brown sauce on it that made it hard to taste the mortadella), and some marinaded carrot.
(Circo makes a much better pizza, but if you like this kind of appetizer plate, Sapporo Osteria Salvatore has a more interesting and tasty appetizer plate.)
I didn’t want the set, but everything was of a good quality and the food was a good experience.
And then, finally (やた- yata!), the pizza.
First bite: Almost creamy cheese, rich olive oil, salt, and a fluffy, delicious crust. That was a very good start. I was eating tomatoes (and salami) in that first bite, but I could barely tell, the other flavors were stronger. Second bite, which was closer to the crust, and I could taste some of the basil Genoese sauce.
The astute reader might notice: There was no prosciutto on this pizza. The set menu says “+¥200” for proscuitto, so maybe you have to ask for it? Maybe you have to be clear that an extra 200 JPY is acceptable? There wasn’t even any discussion about thin-sliced Italian ham. With no discussion at all… this pizza came with salami, instead. And for me, that was probably better.
On my second slice, I caught several hearty slicks of a dense Italian salami, which dominated the flavor for a while, before transitioning back to salt and crust. Wonderful. I loved it.
I was a late arrival to the green pizza Genovese thing. My first Genovese was at Due Sette Pizza in Osaka – and it was instantly one of the best pizzas I’ve ever had. Massamotavio in Tokyo is one of the best pizza shops in Japan, and his basil pizza is on my list of “most wanted.” Locally, Hokkaido Pizza Peace makes several basil sauce pizzas (in that case, however, I can’t recommend that shop at all).
The Circo crust is really good. And, even as a “thin crust” pizza, it’s strong enough to pick up a slice – and gets a passing grade on the famous Pizza Czar Pizza Test.
I like salt and crust, so for me – this was a great pizza. And the colors of the white mozzarella, the red, fresh cherry tomatoes, and the green, almost-sparkling mix of basil and oil as the sauce, set up a very Italian-Flag spectacle; a beautiful pizza.
Tons of olive oil on this pie, which made it buttery-rich, but heavy – ready for a nap afterwards.
The music inside was big, bold, 70s-sounding Italian popular songs. Sono Qui Con Voi (Caterina Caselli), an all Italian version of “Baby Please Don’t Go.” La Spada nel Cuore (Patty Provo). All that.
My only complaint is that it is very loud in Circo. In addition to the music, the staff are yelling out the orders from behind the counter, and then yelling back in confirmation from across the restaurant. That back-forth yelling was jarring, like when you roll up at the Eneos gas station, and they’re calling you in – “Eh! Eh! Eh! Eh! Eh!” I don’t know why they would choose to add all that noise to the experience. Generally too loud. I was in a hurry to leave, so I could go relax.
I like Circo; because they make a really good pizza. I don’t like the noise (way too loud), and I would like Circo Cocono Susukino if it wasn’t in a food court. I haven’t posted this review yet, but the Pizza Circo Vivo also makes a very good pizza, but is my least favorite of the three shops. Good pizzas, I wish the environments where better.
I was trying to rush out the door, and they stopped me to bring me the desert that comes with the lunch set. Okay. I sat back down.
On that desert sample platter, there was a yellow, egg-y custard that was buried in cinnamon; a sweet, fruity jello (Maybe pear? Maybe apple?); a very creamy, soft white custard (with a splash of strawberry sauce); and some raspberry pulp sitting on a dollop of thick, whipped cream. The raspberry cream was the best part (very nice- I could smell the raspberries as they set the plate down).
They were smart to make sure I had the desert; it was all very tasty and put me in a better mood before I left.
Good spot. I could recommend it, and I’ll be back.
Pizza in Sapporo
— The other two Circo pizza restaurants are Circo Vivo Pizzeria and the Pizzeria Circo Cocono – both near Susukino Station
— For an outstanding garlicky Marinara pizza, check out Da Massimo in Shiroishi-ku, Sapporo
— Pizzeria del Capitano in Chuo-ku, Sapporo, near Susukino Station
— The Savoy Pizza in Sapporo is a great choice (in Chuo-ku)
— The farmers from Makino Farms make wonderful little Neapolitan pizza at Makino Pizza (one or two days a month, only)
— A very formulaic Napoletana pizza at Dalsegno Pizza in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— A new downtown location for the chain store Osteria Salvatore Sapporo Pizza is in this same neighborhood
— Heading west away from the center of Sapporo, Pluis e Svago di Pizzeria in Nishi-ku, Sapporo, makes a great pizza
— Bocchi Pizza in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— Quirky neighborhood style pizza at the American-theme Smile Kitchen Pizza Diner
— A family style experience at Higashi-ku’s Orso Pizzeria Gelato in Sapporo
— The only New York pizza slices at Pizza Joint Pike in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— There is a full menu that includes good Neapolitan-style pizza at Agora Pizza in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— ¥500 yen pizza at Hokkaido Pizza Peace in Tanukikouji, Chuo-ku
— One of the worst Chicago pizzas in all of Japan can be found at The Craft in Susukino in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— Vecchia Roma Pizza in Nishi-ku, Sapporo