Pizzeria del Capitano in Chuo-ku, Sapporo

We have a review of yet another excellent Sapporo pizza restaurant for you. This time, we show you several pizzas from Pizzeria del Capitano, in Chuo-ku, Sapporo.

Tourists and locals alike know Tanukikouji; it is a covered shopping street (what the Japanese call a “shotengai”), that runs east-west, located between the Susukino and Odori stations. Tanukikouji has a lot of shopping; from vintage clothing stores to innumerous pharmacies. It is also a classic Sapporo spot to eat and drink.

Sapporo’s Pizzeria del Capitano is located at in Tanukikouji “Seven;” the last block on the west end of Tanukikouji street. It is one of several small restaurants in a building called Tanuki Square. Tourists that take a moment to explore the narrow passage the leads to the back will find one of the best pizzas the city has to offer.

You ready to take a look at the pizza?

It’s that beautiful?

As I write this post, I have now been to this shop three times. On my first visit, I was excited to see both the big steel oven (gas) in the back and the pizza menu. When I saw one of the pizzas on a table next to me – I had no idea how good my meal was going to be.

Since my first visit, the more casual pizza menus have been redesigned (now with impossibly small print, and too much emphasis on allegies). The pizza menu is several pages, with 10+ Rosso pizzas (with tomato sauce) and another 10 Bianca (cheese base, no sauce).

On that first visit, I ordered some appetitizers – just for you, just to show you some of what’s available.

Appetizer Plater: Marinaded Bread (with a bit of tuna?), Smoked Fish, Celery, Carrot, Ham/Mortadella, Prosciutto, Potato Salad (maybe with ham), Fish Soup.

Of the appetizers: I like the prosciutto and the potato salad. The celery was simple, but surprising tasty (with a fennel taste).

I also ordered a pizza, of course. On that first visit, I went after a classic, the Siciliana.

Siciliana Pizza: Garlic, Oregano, Olive, Capers, Anchovies, Tomato Sauce.
— From the Pizza del Capitano pizza menu

Sounded amazing, but, there was a note listed just below the description.

“You can add smoked mackerel additional 500 JPY.”

When you discovered that seafood is the method the Japanese use to make pizza their own, remember it was from me, the Pizza Czar of Japan, where you heard it first. This smoked saba Siciliana an epic pizza, and a wonderful example of seafood pizzas in Japan.

For my first bite, I chomped down and bit off most of the slice. First tastes: maybe tomato and anchovy, and then – that smoked mackerel just dominating everything else. Very good first bite. 2nd bite: only a bit of crust was left. 3rd bite, only a charred crust, and it was excellent.

To drink, a Birra Messina. Orange aroma, rich taste of fruit. Ummm, tasty. light. At the end, a little foamy, almost creamy (like an old school Creamsicle).

Second slice. More of the anchovy, and I was loving it. The Siciliana is one of my favorites, and this is an expecially good one.

Really great sauce. As I would get that last bite of crust and sauce on each slice, I would make a joyful noise.

The anchovy was fantastic. Not overwhelming, but a central flavor. I could not visually see it on the pizza, but I could taste it in every bite, it just kept on giving.

Once again, great crust; to the last bite, something to be thankful for. Not particularly salty, it was more the perfect texture and a wonderful smell.

On a second visit, I wanted to try a different pizza.

Before I ordered, I asked for a recommendation. Before I could finish what I was saying, the early-20s kid behind the counter said “Margherita.” “Just a minute, just a minute, let me finish.” (I don’t want the Margherita.) Of the bianca Bambino or the basil sauce Genovese, which did he prefer? I want with his recommendation.

Bambina Pizza: Bacon, Corn, Onion, Mozzarella
— From the pizza menu at Pizzeria del Capitano

As I picked up a slice, before I could even get a bite, the smell of the crust was already leading the way. What could make a crust so extraordinary that you are already impressed before you take your first bite?

I was impressed, again. First by the smell, then by the taste of that aforementioned crust. Pizzeria Del Capitano makes a very good pizza.

The rest of that Bambino was good, but maybe too simple to be great. Bacon that was closer to a nice ham, crunchy corn, thin sliced onion, on that cheese base – a wonderful combination, but next time I’ll try something else.

Beer this time: A Super Bitter, by Birra Baladin. Reminding me of the Lowenbrau (“Lowie”) Dark I used to drink in college. I checked the label; at 8% ABV it’s almost a barley wine. Great bottle, cool label, but I didn’t like it (I didn’t finish it). Interesting, but not good.

On the third visit, my lovely companion ordered another (internationally) famous Napoletana pizza, the Diavola.

Diavola Pizza: Spicy Salami, Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella, Basil
— From the Pizzeria del Capitano menu

Diavola, first taste: Something bitter, maybe the cheese? It is spicy. Classic flavors, like a high-end pepperoni. My favorite part was, again, the crust.

What did I order on that third visit?

That smoked mackerel pizza at Capitan Pizza in Sapporo is just insanely good. It hits so hard with flavor, with texture (his crust is one of the best I have ever had), and of course that smokey smell.

It is not subtle. Flavors so strong, like getting hit with a shovel. That fishy taste, combined with tomato sauce it just excellent. Reminds me of the sardine Pizza I had at Savoy Tomato & Cheese (in Asabujuban, Tokyo).

In my first set of notes, I called Pizzeria Capitano “comfortable.” After three visits sitting at the tiny seats, pressed up to that little over-crowded counter: I recommend trying to get a table top, if you can (I am too big for that counter). The shop is cluttered, intentionally so, with little one-cup, Moka pots hanging from the overhead lights. The music is “pop,” cheesy international club songs, too fast-paced to be relaxing or enjoyable (trying for a “party” vibe that doesn’t fit the fine food). I don’t really like any of that. But, but… I love the pizza.

And while the dense little clusters of smoked fish on the Siciliana, mixed with tomato, are so exquisite, I have an almost desperate longing just thinking of that pizza: it is the crust that calls to me. This is another place where you might not eat every slice, but you don’t want to leave any crust behind.

As our list of pizza restaurants in Sapporo continues to swell, we are about to write the definitive “best pizza in Sapporo” article, and Pizzeria del Capitano will most certainly be in the top five.

And there will be a next time. I really like this place. Highly recommended.

Pizza in Sapporo

— For an outstanding garlicky Marinara pizza, check out Da Massimo in Shiroishi-ku, Sapporo
— The Savoy Pizza in Sapporo is a great choice (in Chuo-ku)
— The farmers from Makino Farms make wonderful little Neapolitan pizza at Makino Pizza (one or two days a month, only)
— A very formulaic Napoletana pizza at Dalsegno Pizza in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— A new downtown location for the chain store Osteria Salvatore Sapporo Pizza is in this same neighborhood
— To the west, Pluis Pizza in Nishi-ku makes a fantastic pizza
— Quirky neighborhood style pizza at the American-theme Smile Kitchen Pizza Diner
— A family style experience at Higashi-ku’s Orso Pizzeria Gelato in Sapporo
— The only New York pizza slices at Pizza Joint Pike in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— There is a full menu that includes good Neapolitan-style pizza at Agora Pizza in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— One of the worst Chicago pizzas in all of Japan can be found at The Craft in Susukino in Chuo-ku, Sapporo