Pizzeria Bocchi in Chuo-ku, Sapporo

Adding to our list of the pizza restaurants in Sapporo, we bring you a glowing review of Pizzeria Bocchi, in the southern end of Chuo-ku, Sapporo.  The pizza master at this shop makes some creative and delicious pizzas.

I was driving out of town one day when I passed the big stacks of wood that so often signify Napoletana pizza.  Sure enough, a shop I had never heard for before.  I wanted to try it.

The shop calls itself Pizzeria Bocchi (ピッツェリア ボッチ).  It is located on Ishiyama Dori (on the west side of the street), in the southern end of Chuo-ku.  Without a car, your best option is probably to take the tram system – the shop is right in the middle of the bottom of the loop, equally accessible from nine different stops.  If you drive, there are a few parking spots out front.

Inside, the shop is modern, clean, minimal, sophisticated; all very well done.  As you enter, there is another pile of firewood you’ll encounter as you walk in the door.  Then: black ceilings, black menus.  Good style in this place.

What I personally find most important is the quality of the pizza; so let’s take a look.

Wow.  This pizza is gorgeous, and (both sides) taste even better than it looks.

As you crack open the pizza menu you’ll find three pages of pizzas, a mix of classic and specialty pizzas; Maybe 20 pizzas in the menu (+ a calzone).

Marinara Pizza: Tomato Sauce, Garlic, Anchovies, Oregano.
— From the Pizzeria Bocchi pizza menu

In addition to the basic, he has several specialty pizzas, including a regional favorite that includes Hokkaido corn.

Hokkaido Corn Pizza: Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella, Pancetta Cotta,  Corn, Basil
— From the Bocchi Pizza pizza menu

I have had a lot of corn pizza this summer. There is an example local example at Pizzeria e Svago di Pluis (in Nishi-ku). And in 400°C Pizza (in Tokyo) had an incredible two-corn pizza (with chorizo) I had a chance to sample (hard to get a reservation at that shop).

As I was flipping between the pages, considering my choices, I noticed this:

“Half and Half ¥100”

Okay, great.  “If I order the half-and-half, I can try two pizzas.”  I wanted to try his tuna pizza and his “plum” pizza (which turned out to be even better than it sounds).

First, the tuna pizza.

Tonno Pizza: Tomato Sauce, Mozzarella, Garlic, Tuna, Onion, Maitake Mushroom, Oregano
— From Pizzeria Bocchi’s pizza menu

My first moment with my half-and-half pizza was all about the smells. Savory; the initial part of the experience was the smell of the oregano (sprinkled on the tuna half).  I took a deeper breath; oregano, onion, sauce; warm, gorgeous smells.  The oregano was a surprisingly big part of why this pizza was so fantastic.

My first bite: I could taste the onion, and earthy, uber-savory flavors from the maitake mushrooms.  In the second bite: same, followed by a stronger sense of perfect tuna flavors in the background.

The Tonno Pizza at Bocchi is dry and earthy, almost like a fine pastry.  The onion was distinct, but collaborative; not swamping the flavor, but adding to the crunch. The oregano is just amazing in combination with the onions and mushrooms, absolutely fantastic.

I have been trying to find a good tuna pizza in Japan.  Here in Sapporo, you can get a raw tuna pizza at Savoy Ezo.  I had the tuna pizza at Osteria Salvatore (which was not particularly good).  There is a Tonno Pizza at Pizzeria del Capitano (that I have yet to try).  I have had several other tuna pizzas here in Japan.  Based on what I tried in this shop, Bocchi’s Tonno Pizza has official convinced me it is an absolute contender for best tuna pizza in Japan, currently (in my mind) locked in a tie with the Tonno Pizza at Il Lupone (in Tokyo).

Back to the oregano for a moment: why was it so marvelous?  I tried to ask the owner about the oregano after the meal, but we couldn’t really connect through the language barrier.

Now let’s have a talk about this plum pizza; it was just incredible.

Plum and Pork Belly Pizza: Tomato Sauce, Garlic, Pickled Plums, Pork Belly, Tomato, Mozzarella, Eggplant, Perilla Leaf
— From Sapporo Pizzeria Bocchi’s pizza menu

The 2nd half of my pizza was the plum: the first bite (of that side) was a small symphony of contrasting flavors; olive oil, tomato sauce, the bitter mint, and the bright picked plum “ume” (梅).  Eggplant also, crunchy (not deep fried and oily, like so much of the eggplant in Japan).  There is pork belly on this pizza, but I only noticed in the last slice (it is lost in competition with the more exciting, exotic elements).

So many different influences on the ume pizza side; like a jazz band, in full expression. The blast of vinegar flavor from the plums was just amazing.  The thin slices of green mint on top added flavor, and also an excellent counter-note of color against the reds and browns of the sauce and crust.  Excellent pizza, for 100 different reasons; one of the most exciting pizzas I have had in a long time.  Nearly on the level of Marumo Pizza (in Ebisu, Tokyo). Bravo.

The mint ingredient is written as 大葉 (“o-shi”) on the menu, and translates to “shiso” or “perilla leaf.”  This plant is indeed a common ingredient in Japanese cuisine; that serrated-edge, spade-shaped green leaf you know from sushi restaurants (often used as a garnish).

“Perilla is a genus belonging to the mint family, Lamiaceae, comprising one major Asiatic crop species, Perilla frutescens, and a few wild species.”
— From Wikipedia

I could not stop eating the plum pizza. It was not only delicious, but so unique, I wanted to keep exploring the flavors.  Like a kid taking apart a clock or radio, I kept eating, with a passionate curiosity, wanting to understand how the flavors “worked.”

Just a fantastic pizza. Wow.  The plum and mint are such distinct flavors; this pizza is a radical example of a vision of how pizza can be very uniquely Japanese. Umeboshi (especially as a companion to tomato sauce and crust) may be the greatest “undiscovered” pizza topping of all time.

His crust is good, sturdy.  But under the weight of all the fine ingredients, it can barely hold itself together as you try to pick it up.

Reminds me of artisan bread (the owner says it’s a Hokkaido flour).  His crust is very good, but can only play a supporting role, as it cannot compete with the all-star combination of other flavors and excellent pizza making.

Overhead, soft classical music. Piano solos.  There is an upper room, also (that I did not explore).

I’ll likely update this review with more as I have a chance to return.  For now, this is easily one of the best pizza restaurants in Hokkaido.

Highly recommended.

Pizza in Sapporo

— The Savoy Pizza in Sapporo is a great choice (in Chuo-ku)
— For a wonderful, simple-yet-perfect pizza, try Da Massimo Pizza in Shiroishi-ku
— The farmers from Makino Farms make wonderful little Neapolitan pizza at Makino Pizza (one or two days a month, only)
— Great pizza at the Cocono mall location of Pizzeria Circo, at Pizza Circo Vivo (also near Susukino Station), and at Pizza イタリアン Circo (near Sapporo Station), all in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— You have to try the Smoked Mackerel Pizza at Pizzeria del Capitano in Tanukikouji, Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— A very formulaic Napoletana pizza at Dalsegno Pizza in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— New the Sapporo Beer Museum, you’ll find Orso Pizzeria Gelato in Higashi-ku, Sapporo
— A new downtown location for the chain store Osteria Salvatore Sapporo Pizza is in this same neighborhood
— Quirky neighborhood style pizza at the American-theme Smile Kitchen Pizza Diner
— In Sapporo’s Nishi-ku, you’ll find Pizza e Svago di Pluis
— Hokkaido Pizza Peace in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— The only New York pizza slices at Pizza Joint Pike in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— There is a full menu that includes good Neapolitan-style pizza at Agora Pizza in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— One of the worst Chicago pizzas in all of Japan can be found at The Craft in Susukino in Chuo-ku, Sapporo
— Vecchia Roma Pizza in Nishi-ku, Sapporo